(Area 83 sq. km. Distance from Piraeus: 78 nautical miles).A monotonous grey landscape of rock, broken up here and there by a gleaming white chapel, is the first impression made on visitors as the ferry draws into the harbour. But this gives them no idea of the beauty-spots waiting to be discovered inland, which together with the island's superb architecture, rank it among the jewels of the Aegean. The island was famous in ancient times for the wealth which came from its gold and silver mines and the quarries of Sifnos stone. It enjoyed great prosperity in Classical times, as can be seen from its Treasury, dedicated to Apollo at Delphi. An attractive drive from the port of Kamares, a modern town with pottery workshops, brings us to the island's capital, Apolonia. Standing on three hillsides, with its typical Cycladic style of architecture, it is breathtakingly beautiful. It has an interesting folklore museum, while the churches of the greatest interest are those of Our Lady 'Ouranofora' and St Sozon. Like that of the villages round about (Artemonas, Exambela, Kato Petali), the architecture of Apolonia is an odd assemblage in which walls, terraces, courtyards and alleyways form large cubes in a continuous complex, in total harmony with the natural environment. The sole exception to this is the old capital of Kastro, which remains an example of medieval town planning. A collection of Archaic and Hellenistic sculpture and of ceramics from the
Geometric to the Byzantine period is on display in its
Archaeological Museum. Picturesque windmills surrender their
sails to the vagaries of the wind, while no fewer than 365
churches and chapels sprout all over the island like white
mushrooms from the grey carpet of the island's terrain. The
monasteries of Sifnos, such as that of St Symeon, of Ai - Lias,
the Vrissi monastery with an interesting little Byzantine museum
and that of Our lady 'Hryssopigi', the patron saint of the
island, are held in high esteem. The strong local colour of the
mountainous island with its strips of coastal plain is further
heightened by its picturesque fairs and festivals. There are
clean and attractive beaches at Kamares, Faros and Platis
Gialos, as well as quieter and lesser-known ones, such as those
at Hersonissos, Vroulidia, and Fikiada Fassolou. 9 Tourist
facilities on Sifnos are of a good standard and it is possible
for the visitor to combine a lively night life with a peaceful
island existence close to nature.How to get there: By ferry from Piraeus Information: Piraeus Port Authority, tel.: 01/422.6000. Useful telephone numbers Automatic dialling code: 0284. Police (Apolonia): 31210 Harbour Office: 31617 Commune of Apolonia: 31345 Commune of Artemonas: 32380,31234.